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Chamonix Mont Blanc is a French commune nestled under it’s namesake peak of Mt.Blanc and home to some 9000 residents that swells with visitors on a daily basis. Part of the Haute Savoie department in the Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France, it has a respected heritage as a site for mountain sports.
Situated below the largest peaks of the alps, Chamonix is well known to the mountaineering and skiing communities as a epic region for testing of alpine equipment. Mont Blanc translates to “White Mountain”, and is the highest mountain in the European Alps. At 4,810 m (15,781 ft) above sea level it is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence. The mountain lies between the regions of the Aosta Valley in Italy and the Haute-Savoie in France.
The summit is on the line between the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy and Montjoie and the Arve Valley in France. The first recorded ascent of Mont Blanc was on 8 August 1786 by Jacques Balmat and Doctor Michel Paccard. The climb was initiated and rewarded by Horace-Bénédict de Saussure and traditionally marks the start of modern mountaineering.
Chamonix is often sensationally referred to as “the death sport capital of the world”. Behind the headlines there is some truth to be found. On the surface Chamonix is much the same as any ski town but once you venture out in the backcounty the story changes. In the height of the summer season, sitting in one of the many cafes, it’s easy to miss the constant buzz of the PGHM or Sécurité Civile helicopters heading up to over 4000m to rescue another person in trouble.
It’s easy to jump on a lift or take a train that whisks you up to 3 or 4000m without a problem. From that point things can get difficult quickly. Up at the top of the highest ski lift in Europe, the Aiguille du Midi, there is a little gate that you exit to the Vallee Blanche, a very long, unmarked double black ski run. It’s basically says once you go through this gate you are on your own. Good luck.
The town has an on/off affair with many of it’s sports, except skiing of course. The wing suit phenomenon was made for the Brevent couloirs but after a couple of tragic deaths the commune soon banned it. Enough time passed and the ban was lifted. A downhill track for mountain bikers was built from L'Index, only to be abandoned a couple of seasons later.
Along with the vast amount of alpine sports enthusiasts, there are tourists by the coach load. Literally. August is best avoided unless you must watch the UTMB (Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, 1000's of ultra marathon runners take a day or two to run round Mt Blanc), which if course you must, it’s excellent.
Inter season (May and October) are great months to visit unless you want lift access (ADM lift is open all year). Which of course you do as the Aiguille di Midi lift (highest vertical ascent lift and previous highest lift station in Europe) takes you to an amazing place amongst the snowy peaks with views to three countries and of course Mt Blanc. Mornings are best if you want to see anything and hopefully the illusive clearing inversion. It’s a scary lift ride as well.
The train to Montenvers and the receding Mer de Glace is a less exciting ride but still an excellent view. See the glacier whilst you still can. The lift to Grand Montets, the hot spot for winter, is also very good and Brevent and Flegere across the valley give good views albeit in a little more subdued surroundings. Excellent hiking this side of the valley as well as in the Aiguilles Rouge national park.
The town itself has an excellent selection of shops and restaurants. All the big outdoor names are here and equipment for your activity can usually be found in abundance. Ice creams for the rest. The three meals of the day are easily catered for and snacks along the way.
I’ve seen wingsuits fly into the valley, pull chutes and land just over the river. I’ve watched avalanche debris crash down onto the Grand Balcon Nord while walking up the river. I’ve seen boulders the size of trucks crash down into the forest while standing in the main car park. I’ve stood next to cracking seracs. I’ve flown through the Aiguilles in a helicopter that couple of years later crash landed on the Argentiere Glacier. I’ve been told to ‘catch the doctor’ by a Gendarme as he was winched down from their helicopter onto a 1m wide trail with a 600m drop on one side.
So many stories. Chamonix feels like living, because you are so close to death.
